On the surface, siblings often follow different drummers, but at their core is always
a common thread that binds them together.
A case in point is Café Margaux and Ulysses Prime Steakhouse. At a casual
glance, the brother-and-sister restaurants in Cocoa Village couldn't be more different.
Margaux is feminine, sophisticated, while younger sibling Ulysses is bold
and masculine.
Yet the two restaurants share more than the wall that separates them. Although
their menus vary significantly, both reflect the passion for perfection that is the
hallmark of Brevard restaurateurs Alex and Pam Litras.
The well-established, nineteen-year-old Margaux
provides an excellent role model for the upand-
coming three-year-old Ulysses.
Considered by many gourmands as one of
the top restaurants in Florida, Café Margaux was
inducted in 2007 into the top 20 restaurants in
Florida Trend's "Golden Spoon Hall of Fame."
"That was quite an honor," says Alex.
Margaux, known for its creative French and
European cuisine, is also included in the DiRoNa –
Distinguished Restaurants of North America –
compendium of fine dining and gourmet restaurants
in the United States, Canada and Mexico.
With 4,000 bottles and 400 varieties, Café
Margaux's wine selections have repeatedly caught
the eye of Wine Spectator. For five years, this arbiter of enological quality has presented Margaux with its
award of excellence.
Litras takes pride in his restaurants' outstanding
menu, but for him, the dining experience is not complete
without an ambiance that appropriately frames
the food.
"Dining is really about a mood," he says.
The physical design of both Margaux and Ulysses
serve as unique backdrops to the drama of the meal.
Litras credits his artist wife Pam's creativity for
imbuing the restaurants with distinct personalities.
At Café Margaux, where entrées include such
complicated delicacies as spice rubbed seared ostrich
tenderloin served over Israeli couscous with a Pinot
Noir, bacon and horseradish sauce; the atmosphere is
feminine, particularly in the pink and green rooms.
To balance the space, Pam inserted the animal room
in between. The three alcoves each offer their own
intimate perspectives.
"When you're in one of the alcoves, you do not
feel you're in a large restaurant," says Alex.
Most formal of the three is the pink room, Margaux's
first dining area. Uncompromisingly feminine,
the space is genteel and welcoming, particularly in
contrast to the animal room next door, where Pam
blended her elaborate and colorful animal paintings
with an earthy palette in furnishings and draperies.
"We're honored when some guests come in wearing
an animal motif because they like the animal
room so much," says Alex.
The texture in the animal room is a precursor
to the mood Pam and Alex later infused into both
Ulysses and in their Mediterranean room banquet
facilities.
Finishing the triumvirate of Margaux dining spaces is the playful green room, home to Pam's whimsical and colorful
foam paintings.
All accessories, down to salt and pepper shakers, were specifically
selected for each room setting.
"Each piece belongs in a certain room, which drives the wait staff
crazy," says Pam.
Pam's artistic touch also extends to the elaborate hand painted
desserts patrons so adore.
"Presentation is most important to me," she says.
"Food not only has to taste good, it has to look good."
Margaux fan Martha Pommer and her sister are devoted fans of
this edible art.
"Her designs are wonderful," she says.
"We don't eat the designs because they're so beautiful. We don't
want to mar the pictures."
Pam's desserts add the finishing touch to the carefully orchestrated
dining experience.
"This is the grand finale to the meal," adds Alex.
"The dessert is a piece of art."
The Litras' passion for culinary design is shared by Margaux's
Chef Erol Tugrul as well as by Chef Kevin Johnson, the man in
charge of the Ulysses kitchen.
At Ulysses, the mood is self-assured, as befits a restaurant that
specializes in prime aged steaks and lobster.
"Ulysses was a team effort," says Alex.
"I wanted it to replicate a gentleman's club, but not going to the
extreme of having moose heads on the wall. Pam came up with the
design. Some people thought the dark colors she chose would close it
in, but it ended up making the place feel rich and open."
The centerpiece of Ulysses is its kitchen, encased in brown and
ochre tones of art glass that swirl, mimicking the flames of the grill.
"We designed everything around it," says Alex.
"We didn't want it to be claustrophobic. We wanted to have
an open design but we didn't want the noise or the aroma from the
kitchen."
The glass becomes a piece of performance art when chefs
move silently behind it and the grill spills real flames to the join
the abstract versions in the glass.
As the name implies, Ulysses is a nod to Litras' Greek roots,
so Pam incorporated Mediterranean touches through the chandeliers
and other fixtures.
As opposed to Margaux's delicate china settings, the Ulysses
table setting is sleek, solid.
Café Margaux and Ulysses Steakhouse are part of the Belair Courtyard, the historic 1920s building that neighbors the Cocoa Village
Playhouse. Pam and Alex acquired the courtyard two years ago, completing
the journey begun in 1990 with the opening of then 13-table Café
Margaux.
Surrounded by intriguing shops, the two-story courtyard offers a
seductive outdoor dining option for patrons of both Ulysses and Margaux.
Upstairs, the Mediterranean room caters to private parties and special
events, such as outstanding cognac, brandy and sake pairings.
In this second story sanctum, Pam combined the dynamic palette of
Ulysses with organic touches such as antelope horn sconces.
Patrons laud the couple for their almost-obsessive attention to detail.
John Campbell was one of Margaux's first customers. He hasn't stopped
dining there since.
"I can't say enough about the restaurant," says Campbell, of Merritt
Island.
"If anyone gives us a gift certificate, it's a gift certificate to Café
Margaux."
In fact, after Campbell noticed available office space in upstairs
Belair, he's been toying with the idea of leasing it as a weekend getaway.
Richard Beagley is another regular drawn to the atmosphere of the
two sibling restaurants.
"A lot of the time we go there on the spur of the moment," says the
Merritt Island resident.
"It's such a relaxing place."
Like one of the Litras' exquisitely paired wine dinners, Margaux and
Ulysses have proven a perfect pair.
"They play off each other," says Alex.
"We have customers who frequent Café Margaux more often and
Ulysses occasionally and vice versa. I find it funny when I hear couples
arguing about which of the two restaurants to go to."
An excellent introduction to both Café Margaux and Ulysses
Steakhouse can be found at the many special dining events Alex and
Pam Litras host throughout the year. For menus and information, visit
margaux.com or ulyssesprime.com.